FEB. BON APPETIT: TOFU IN KYOTO
Tofu! Tofu? I know what you're thinking. But trust me: Fresh tofu in Japan is an altogether different species than the bland water-logged loaves we get here. There are regional varieties all over Japan but Kyoto is the acknowledged center of tofu making, tofu culture and general tofu obsessing. Check out my story in this month's Bon Appetit, in which I run around the city, learn from artisinal tofu producers how they turn soaked beans into delicate blocks or fried sheets, visit an ancient yuba (tofu skin) maker, eat boiled yudofu in a centuries old ryokan and tofu donuts in the street and a lot of other things along the way. Jeff Lipsky's pictures in the print magazine are beautiful; I'll post a scan when I get a copy. For now here's a link to the online version.
(Above: with Genichi Morii, tofu maker at the famous shop Morika, which, as you know, uses calcium sulfate rather than standard magnesium chloride as a coagulant).