HOW TO EAT A MORNING BUN
This is the morning bun. This is the morning bun I ate this morning. It's from Tartine on Guerrero. It is a thing of complex beauty. Orange-sugary, at once sticky and gooey and crumbly, with near-caramelized edges and a heart of golden butter. There are two schools of thought about how to eat it. I am the dean of both schools. One: eat the edges first, pulling away each gooey-buttery outer ring at a time, moving around and inward, leaving the nearly-self–contained cylindrical center for last. This is the prized shot-glass of buttery nectar. Two: Eat the shot-glass-center first. Then move outward in any manner you like. How you eat this depends on your theories about delaying pleasure or your feelings that day about the likelihood of a bus veering off 18th St, smashing through the window and killing you where you stand (you will have at eaten the best part first). This is glass half-full, versus half-empty stuff, except that the glass is full of butter. I once ran into one of Tartine's owner at some food-industry party in New York and cornered them to talk about my feelings about the morning bun. This is akin to (I imagine) going to a swingers club and running into someone from the PTA who wants to talk about your kids. One other tip: get there early before they are gone. One final tip: Never eat two of these in a morning.